Pair brunch fare with natural wine at the new space from the Ruffian team, which opened in the former Eddy space at 342 East Sixth Street late last year. The dinner menu—which reached full strength this month—focuses on handmade pastas and coastal Italian flavors, and the daytime weekend menu sticks to the flavor profile while still being hearty and recognizable. There’s macaroni and cheese made with cavatelli, chickpea, and more; crispy sweetbreads and buttermilk waffles; and red lentil hash browns served with housemade crème fraîche.
On the beverage side, there is sparkling carrot water and a seasonal iced tea for zero-proof options, and a nice list of alcoholic cocktails, like the Green Snapper starring aquavit, a Bloody Mary with Calabrian chile, and a Breakfast Manhattan with pineapple amaro. Here, the cocktail offerings and bottle selections, while small, match the ingenuity and curiosity present in their wine selections, which focus on Slovenia, Croatia, and lesser-known grapes from Italy.
The cozy, welcoming vibe of the counter-seating-only Ruffian is on full display here in the larger space, along with the wisdom and taste of its beverage directors. In a world where natural wine is being discussed as an almost boring prospect, they continue to provide shocks to the palate.
Here are the highlights from the weekend menu, below:
Breakfast Gnocco Fritto | Sunny Up Eggs | Black Pudding
Brandade Benedict | Poached Eggs | Sourdough Toast | Trout Roe
Italian Brunch Torte | Baked Eggs | Butternut Squash | Feta | Sage | Puff Pastry
Red Lentil Hashbrowns | Housemade Crème Fraîche | Chives
Adult Mac & Cheese | Cavatelli | Chickpea | Romano | Espelette
Corzetti| Nduja Sausage | Ricotta | Winter Rabe
Chicken Fried Sweetbreads & Buttermilk Waffles | Spicy Honey Butter | Maple Syrup
Orange or Grapefruit
Cardamom | Salt
Seasonal Iced Tea
Rooibos | Toasted Coconut
Sparkling Carrot Water
Star Anise | Black Walnut
Fever-Tree Lemon Tonic Water
Spicy Radish Vodka | Tomato | Anchovy | Calabrian Chili | Lemon
Aquavit | Celery | Fennel | Cucumber | Caraway | Salt
Thyme to Wake Up Mimosa
Pineapple-Thyme Shrub | Prosecco
Bourbon | Pineapple Amaro | Almond | Rooibos | Coffee | Salt