The Magazine: March-April 2011
Liquid Assets:
Bullshot
The rise and fall of the beef-broth cocktail.
Worth the Trip:
Going Hog Wild in Yorkville
This little piggy went to the Hungarian Meat Market.
Appetites:
Jonathan Safran Foer
On meat as fashion, how pastured poultry is like light cigarettes, and why policy can’t accomplish what meatless lunches can.
Tastemaker:
The Reluctant Rock Star
Despite a modest demeanor and a London address, Fergus Henderson might be New York’s most influential cook.
The Food Chain:
Free Range Weekend
Chefs from Five Points, Cookshop and Hundred Acres visit the pastures where their pigs live—and the slaughterhouse where they die.
Indigenous Industry:
Ottoman(elli) Empire
After 60 years on Bleecker, these butchering brothers still cut everything but corners.
Traceability:
Carnivore Knowledge
How an upstart upstate butcher shop sparked the modern meatcutting movement.
Op-Edible:
Billy the Kid: Not Wanted Dead or Alive
Goat dairies have a glut of baby boys—and need you to help eat them.
Artisans:
The Piggery
Two unlikely farmers craft world-class charcuterie for conscientious carnivores.
Back of the House:
Keens Steakhouse
Citadel of Mutton and Memory.
Aftertaste:
Kosher Law’s Big-City Makeover
Some eaters insist on a designation that’s been millennia in the making: meat that is certified kosher—Hebrew for “fit to eat.”
The Foodshed:
Going Against the Grain
An exec-turned-farmer raises some of the city’s best beef.
First Person Rural:
Livestock Husband(ry)
How a vegetarian Upper East Sider became a cattle rancher—in the name of animal welfare and true love.
Notable Edibles:
Across the East River, a Bestiary
M. Wells is not in Manhattan, but this tiny Long Island City restaurant is just across the Midtown Tunnel and would be worth a trip for the meat-lover even if it were on the very tip of Long Island.
Notable Edibles:
The Cure for the Common Career
Growing up in an Italian family in Bensonhurst, Brooklyn, city sausage-maker Scott Bridi always felt “the spirit of charcuterie.” But eight years ago he was working a desk job in publishing.
Grist for the Mill:
Grist for the Mill
Letter from the Editor