Bergen Hill used to be one of those neighborhood favorites back when Carroll Gardens had them. Now, with a move to Manhattan, it’s for Cooper Square to stake its claim. With space limitations for owners, Ravi DeRossi (of Death & Co., among others) and Daniel Kessler (the guitarist with the band Interpol) a move just made perfect sense.
“The old Bergen Hill had just four tables and ten counter seats… people heard about this charming little restaurant in Carroll Gardens and would make the trek out to see us on the weekends,” shares Drew Brady, the establishment’s manager. “Unfortunately, we would have to turn many of them away because we didn’t have enough seats.”
During the move, they had time to revisit the concept. And so they now have dishes that will make you weep with a well-deserved joy. Was it the squid that resembles pasta in a red sauce? Or what about that Riesling soaked octopus? Perhaps the crudo that I want to keep a secret? Or the burrata that is made on the premises and is served with tuna tapenade and not overpowering basil? —Daniel Scheffler