Very Fresh Noodles justifies its own hype. With a stripped-down menu of three items—Taiwanese beef noodle is the runaway crowd hit—the tiny little noodle cubby has managed to zero in on delicious.
There’s a “tingly” beef or lamb cumin dish, served dry or in soup, with the powerful wallop of Szechuan peppercorns, chili oil, cumin—and of course a tangle of their delicious biangbiang noodles. There’s a savory vegan option that I was quite taken by, using a traditional Chinese mushroom broth, bok choy, pickled mustard greens and a toothy mock duck to stellar results. And of course, there’s that “banging” beef noodle soup that drives Tondreau to curse. —Jesse Hirsch