The Magazine: May-June 2009
Notable Edibles:
Great Catch
At the Grand Central Oyster Bar it’s time to taste the season’s specialty–new virginal herring.
Notable Edibles:
Otto Gelato
Pastry chef Meredith Kurtzman makes darn good pastries, but it’s the olive oil gelato this writer craves.
Notable Edibles:
Spoon-Fed
Lifelong farm girl Melissa Chmelar dishes up super fresh brunch in Chelsea.
Notable Edibles:
Condiments Take a Cue from Aesop’s Ant
Harbour builds its reputation on sustainable seafood and an official pickle program.
Notable Edibles:
Not a Bean Counter
Chocolate for the tame, adventurous and addicted at Bespoke.
Super Markets:
Despaña
A slice of Spain in SoHo.
Worth the Trip:
The Bowery, Before It Takes a Bow
Restaurant supply row still stocks endless epicurean equipment—for now.
In the Kitchen With:
Mimi Sheraton
Food writer, cookbook author, former Times restaurant critic.
Interviewed by emily warren. photographs by carolyn fong
Behind the Bottle:
After the Rain
Kareem Massoud on man, nature, wine and learning to trust his instincts.
Decline and Fall of the Manhattan: Plotting our Namesake Cocktail’s Legacy
“In all cases, children [in myth] who are said to be twins…will have different adventures later on which will, if I may say so, untwin them.”
—Claude Lévi-Strauss, Myth and Meaning
Throughout much of the history of the American cocktail,…
May-June 2009
In This Issue
7
READERS WRITE
8
NOTABLE EDIBLES
15
SUPER MARKETS Despaña A slice of Spain in SoHo.
18
WORTH THE TRIP The Bowery, Before it Takes a Bow Restaurant supply row still stocks endless epicurean equipment—for now.
23…
Tastemaker:
Like Water for Chocolate
Jacques Torres angles for striped bass.
Iconic Foods:
The Knish
Why a misunderstood masterpiece should finally get its due.
Bean Scene:
Coffee Groundswell
Gotham joe finally catches up.
Traceability:
Satur Farms
This four-star chef traded his whisk for a spade.
Back of the House:
Gotham Bar and Grill
Still cravy after all these years.